Fast fashion is a global industry phenomenon that produces trendy, affordable clothing at an alarming rate. While the promise of affordable clothing and instant gratification may be appealing to consumers, the industry has left an enormous stain on both the environment and society.

Fast fashion and, more recently, ultra-fast fashion are characterised by rapid production cycles, overconsumption, waste, and unethical labour practices. This unsustainable business model creates devastating environmental impacts and ethical concerns, making it vital for consumers to understand the true cost of their clothing purchases.

The Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion

The production and disposal of clothing in the fast fashion industry have far-reaching environmental consequences. The fashion industry as a whole is responsible for approximately 10% of global carbon emissions—fast fashion's unsustainable practices contribute heavily to this figure.

Fast fashion encourages consumers to buy cheap clothing in high quantities. As a result, these garments are often worn only a handful of times before being discarded. In the UK alone, it’s estimated that around 300,000 tonnes of clothing end up in landfills each year, contributing to the waste crisis. Most of these items are made from synthetic materials, such as polyester, which do not decompose and instead release harmful microplastics into the environment.

Moreover, the vast water consumption required for producing cheap clothing is staggering. For instance, producing a single cotton t-shirt can use up to 2,700 litres of water, equivalent to what one person drinks over two-and-a-half years! These levels of water usage are particularly problematic in countries already experiencing water scarcity.

Beyond production, the transportation of garments—often manufactured in far-flung locations to reduce costs—contributes significantly to greenhouse gas emissions. With the rising demand for rapid delivery options, transportation emissions from the fashion industry are only increasing.

The Rise of Ultra-Fast Fashion

In recent years, ultra-fast fashion has emerged as an even more damaging iteration of the fast fashion industry. Brands like SHEIN, Boohoo, and PrettyLittleThing have accelerated production cycles, with some brands reportedly releasing thousands of new styles each day. Ultra-fast fashion thrives on social media platforms such as TikTok, where "haul" videos—showing influencers unboxing dozens of new items at once—encourage an endless cycle of overconsumption. As journalist Lauren Bravo points out, "Clothing is now essentially being sold as a ‘Fast Moving Consumer Good’," like a soft drink or snack, disposable and temporary.

The consequences of this ultra-fast fashion model are alarming. Not only does it increase waste, but ultra-fast fashion brands often produce garments with poor quality, meaning they are worn even less before being discarded. Many of these garments are made from synthetic fibres, further contributing to plastic pollution in our oceans.

Labour Exploitation in Fast Fashion

Another dark side of both fast and ultra-fast fashion is the exploitation of garment workers. Many brands outsource production to countries where labour is cheap, and regulations are lax. Workers in factories are often paid far below a living wage, forced to work in unsafe conditions, and subjected to long hours with little to no job security.

Ultra-fast fashion has worsened this situation. Reports have uncovered instances where workers in some of these factories work up to 75 hours a week and earn pennies per item of clothing produced. Despite the growing awareness of labour exploitation, many ultra-fast fashion brands fail to disclose any meaningful information about the treatment of their workers. The pressure to meet the demands of fast-paced fashion cycles pushes these workers to their limits.

Surveillance Capitalism: The Tech Behind Ultra-Fast Fashion

Another concerning aspect of ultra-fast fashion is its reliance on data-driven marketing strategies known as “surveillance capitalism.” Brands like SHEIN and Boohoo gather enormous amounts of consumer data through their online presence. By tracking consumer behaviours and using artificial intelligence, they can predict trends and encourage impulse buying.

Platforms like TikTok play a significant role in this process, where every click and interaction is analysed to create hyper-targeted ads, pushing consumers to buy more. This data-driven approach has fuelled ultra-fast fashion’s rapid growth, creating a toxic feedback loop of overconsumption.

Rethinking Fashion Consumption

As consumers, it’s crucial to recognise the role we play in the fashion industry’s impact on the environment and society. While it’s easy to fall into the trap of overconsumption, there are steps we can take to break the cycle.

• Buy Less, Choose Well: Opt for quality over quantity. Invest in pieces that will last longer and be worn multiple times. Classic, timeless styles are less likely to go out of fashion.
• Support Sustainable Brands: Look for brands that prioritise sustainability and transparency in their production processes. Brands with Fairtrade certification or those rated positively by independent organisations are often more ethical choices.
• Repair, Reuse, and Recycle: Instead of discarding clothing after a few wears, consider repairing items, upcycling them into something new, or donating them. Many areas in the UK also offer textile recycling facilities to reduce landfill waste.
• Second-hand Shopping: Buying pre-loved clothing from charity shops or online platforms can significantly reduce the demand for new garments and prevent clothing from ending up in landfills.
• Push for Change: Support legislation that holds brands accountable for their environmental and labour practices. In the UK, there is growing pressure for regulations that ensure transparency and sustainable practices in the fashion industry.

Final Thoughts

Fast fashion and its ultra-fast counterpart offer cheap and trendy clothing at an unprecedented rate. However, the environmental and ethical costs of this industry are too great to ignore. By rethinking our consumption habits and supporting more sustainable practices, we can help shift the fashion industry towards a more responsible and ethical future.